Showing posts with label geothermal energy. Show all posts
Showing posts with label geothermal energy. Show all posts

Tuesday, August 11, 2015

At a high

Top of the world
What follows are those hot springs located in and around Lhasa, Tibet's capital which were originally in another posting, but changes / changes.

Superlatives are used to describe the hot spring of Yangbajing (or alternatively Yangpachen) located in Doilungdeqen county, 87 km north of Lhasa. And arguably one of Tibet's most well-known.
This in part is due to access; the hi-speed railroad to Lhasa passes here and there is a station, enable dieembakation. Even Micheal Pailin made it here, so why not join in?

The Yangbajing springs are massive and are stated  to be the highest altitude springs in the world.
Included as one of the World's Most Amazing Hot Springs, this site is less direct:
'The Yangbajing hot springs field is at an altitude of 4290–4500 m which makes it the highest altitude set of hot springs in China, and possibly the world'.
(Btw, Conumdrum hot springs (CO) are the highest in North America at 3,400m while Boliva's Termas de Polques hot springs are notched at 4,400 (close ...)).

Others have included Yangbajing as one of the 10 Coolest Places to Swim, which seems a bit odd; though the temperature may be cold, the water is hot.


'Hot spring bath at 4600m'.
By Zuzi Griffiths. Though electricity was won since the 1970's, these pools were only filled in 1998 (1).

The Yangbajing hot springs field is extensive. It apparently covers a large area (40 km2, no less, though wikipedia notes 20-30 km2) and besides including the bathing complex (see photo) and geysers, it is also a source for geothermal energy, enough to sustain half of Lhasa so is learnt. I even managed to find an internet entry on Duoji, claimed to be the expert driving the geothermal power project of Yangbajing.

The uniqueness is further demonstrated with this tale of it's existence (from Magic (!) Tibet:
'It was said that long time ago, before the sky and the earth was separated, the whole world was in total darkness. People living at the foot of Mt. Nyainqntanglha were suffering. One day, a golden phoenix flied to the area, determined to create brightness by sacrificing itself. It threw one of its bright eyes onto the ground. A fairy caught the eye, and then a bright lamp arose in the air. Snow capped peaks of Mt. Nyainqntanglha appeared; grassland like huge carpet emerged; happiness came into Tibetan people. However, a greedy man near Yangbajing coveted the lamp. He took a witch man’s idea to sharpen his hatred into an arrow to shoot the lamp. The lamp was broken then, the pieces of the lamp dropped onto the ground, turning into hot springs and burned the man to his end. People said that the hot springs were the fairy’s tears'.
Rabbit writes on clickandrender an expansive piece on Yangbajing including many photo's.

The aforementioned wikipedia reference mentions that the hot springs bathing site goes by the neme of Holy Medical Spring Resort which
'... has both two indoor swimming pools and one outdoor swimming pool'. 
You dog?
The Dezong hot spring (Maizhokunggar county) contrasts greatly with the prior featured hot spring. 
Devoid of development, the setting is rustic and accompanying this is the fact that it's mostly frequented by locals whose disregard for formal attire provides outsiders (surprise, surprise mostly males) with a carte blanche to highlight their possible ultimate dreams.


For instance, this website states the following:
'The hot spring pool is divided into two zones-male pool and female pool. Though a flaw on the wall separating the pool, nobody would peep for lust-people there are quite pure.
...
Man and women bathing together with just a low stone wall between Bubbe bath and medical-worth are another TWO characters of Dezong Hot Spring. Somestimes, local pet dogs are lying by the pool 'appreciating' the naked tourists.'
What a load of info. Tibetan's have no lust? Local dogs do? Or do they really appreciate naked tourists?

Tibettravel.org's dogs appreciating?

While discussing Dezong (sometimes spelt as Dezhong), China Service Mall asks the following question:
'Is there anywhere else you can bathe in curative, calcite and tussilago-infused waters while gazing upon the most rugged, photogenic landscapes on the planet?'
That seems a weird question, when there are more than 1000 other similar hot springs and the first randomly chosen hot spring featured on this site acclaims to the same!
They continue with the description of the hot spring:
'The Dezong Hot Springs are arranged in simple, rustic fashion, divided into a men's pool, above, and a women's pool, below. 40° C, jade-colored spring waters cascade 20 meters into the resort's pools'.
There was evidence that bathing in Dezong has been taking place for over 1400 years, which must be something of a record.

Mates
One of the more difficult factors when researching hot springs in Tibet is the lack of info foremost and the general confusement concerning the name. Often referred to as Tidrum (or Tirdum, Tridum, Tridom, Dedrom, Drigong) hot spring I believe may well be the same as the above. Pictures though are not conclusive. Experience though in both seems great.


'This is a view from the outside of the hot springs at Tidrum Nunnery'.

'Tidrum Nunnery was home to a hot spring. ...And not just any hot spring. These pools were world class. Gently carbonated, just over 100 degrees Fahrenheit, open to the stars—they don’t get much better than that. Joining eight or ten naked, intoning pilgrims, my attitude about the guest house quickly shifted. What at first seemed like a hardship post was in fact heaven.
My springmates stopped chanting long enough to warn me away from the patch of nettles growing along one edge of the pool. One part of me knew I shouldn’t stay too long, but another part was loving it enough to consider settling in until I simply moved on to my next life and could let my body be taken down the road for a proper sky burial.
After about fifteen minutes I looked up at the lone decoration, a framed photograph of a monk. Someone tried explaining the significance of the picture. Or perhaps he was telling me that my formerly white skin was looking lobster-like. I chose to see the one-way conversation as a sign that it was time to go. My sleep wasn’t half bad'.
Elsewhere Tibetwildyakadventures states:
'Concrete free, these hot springs are truly curative and relaxing. Men and women have separate bathrooms for changing. The best part is the fee. If things haven't changed when you go, it's only 5RMB per person to enjoy the hot springs and the nunnery is free. Some nunneries will offer free accommodations in certain circumstances. Whatever you do, don't get rushed by your driver or guide. This is a place to relax, forget about your watch and soak up the healing waters'.
Hillbilly hollar even introduces us to the aspect of professional soakers:
'Many professional soakers from all over Tibet come and stay for days. A room will cost you $5, and if you can't speak the language than it will be an instant noodle night for you. There is plenty of hot water'.
Where does one apply?

The men's pool at Tidrum by Jill and John. Most probably taken by John:
'To me it was just a lovely hot soak on a cool afternoon'.
More recent info, the Shambhala Serai Tirdom hotel recently opened up and describes itself as a spa / hotel:
'Shambhala Source has 18 rooms overlooking the canyon ravine, hot springs and meditation caves. Six “Tantric space suites” are two-story accommodations with a bathroom featuring a hot spring tub on the first floor with seating, and bedroom with private balcony overlooking the ravine on the second floor. Six other rooms are standard size and also feature a hot spring in the bath. Six more rooms have unsurpassed views over the canyon but no hot spring water directly in the room. All guests may use the open hot spring pool which all rooms overlook'.
A tripadvisor review:
'We stayed 2 nights here. It's a beautiful spot in a river gorge and has mens and womens hot spring pools which are great if your are not too modest. Rooms are marginally clean enough and hot water was no problem. Service was weak and no one speaks English. The restaurant food can generously be described as simple but adequate. Not a great place but probably much better than monastery guesthouse alternatives'.
Aerial View
Shambhala by redcapitalbeijing

Profiteering
Xungbara Qu gets one mention, that as a mini-hot spring in Doilungdeqen county (1).
The mini part lies in the lower temperature possibly. However drinking this water cures stomach aches and skin diseases, bathing stops itches. The same single source mentions that the curative qualities of the water has lead to the establishment of a pharmaceutical plant nearby
'... which are making good profits'.
Extensive search resulted in another find, Qusang hot spring of Doilungdeqen county. Or is it Quisang, Qui sang, Qub sang, Qusan or even Chu sang? Possibly the Qu could also refer to the Xungbara Qu of above. Geoinfo adds:
'Qubsang Qucain is a hot spring(s) and is located in Tibet Autonomous Region, China. The estimate terrain elevation above seal level is 4551 metres. Variant forms of spelling for Qubsang Qucain or in other languages: Qubsang Qucain (bo), Qiusang Qucan (zh), 邱桑曲灿 (zh), Qiusang Qucan, Qubsang Qucain, qiu sang qu can, 邱桑曲灿'.
Whatever, I did find this recent web text elaborating on the bathing habits at Qusang:
'Women were all wrapped in thick padded gowns and waiting outside. They just cared about when they could have a bath and paid little heed to us. When it's the time for women to take the baths, and no male are allowed to come into the hot spring. Males and females bathe in 6-hour turns and a bell notifies them when it's time to switch'.
Just one of the three photo's of Qusang hot spring. No subtitle.

The website from which the photo above stems from, has a photo essay entitled
'西藏神奇的裸浴温泉 [Tibet's magic nude bath spa]'
Qusang would be Tibetan for quality water (source) which makes more sense.
Other info includes the fact that this hot spring is only 60 km from Lhasa.

Less info on more springs
Other hot springs in Maizhokunggar county are Paoshang and Riduo. Riduo seems to have certain unknown qualities:
'... is famous for its magic water functions which can improve people's health, beautify skin and adjust blood pressure'
as this website claims. 
But there's more:
'The water temperature at the spring source of Riduo can reach as high as 81C, but in spite of that, there is a harmless little worm living in the water which the locals call "holy worms".
In Rutog village, Maizhokunggar county, one can find the Rutog hot spring!
'[Rutog] is famous for its magic water functions which can improve people's health, beautify skin and adjust blood pressure. Endless visitors and believers come to the hotspring every day for bathing and pilgrim'.
This quote though seems to have partially disappeared from the internet, at least the latter part.
What I did find was that Rutog's springs now are directed to a bottling plant.

Purku hot spring is another hot spring most probably located in Lhasa, the reference at least refers to Nyemo, a county in Lhasa prefecture. This article sums up the hot spring as follows:
'The hot spring is in valley with lofty mountains rising to the sky on both sides. The Yarlung Zangbo River is compressed into a narrow curve at this point. There are many hot springs. On the opposite bank of the river is Tare Village, and there are several hot springs on the cliffs to the west of the village, where villagers have hollowed out several stone pits for people to bathe in winter. Purku Hot Spring is on northern bank of the river with the water temperature of 70 degrees Centigrade, too hot to bathe directly'.
Complete with pictures.
With probably the same hot spring, the book Tibetan Voices: A traditional memoir (Harris, 1996) reference is made of hot springs in Nyemo: 
'In Nyemo there is a very nice river where you could bathe in the winter. Along the banks were some places where you could dig down and the hole would fill up with hot water from an underground spring'.
Thus wraps up this intro to soaking in Tibet and highlighting a few of many of Tibet's hot springs. In the above one must note that the sources used may not always be correct; be it concerning the name of the hot spring or the location.

Notes:
(1) refers to the anonymous publication entitled Travel Guide to Tibet of China, published in 2003 by China International Press.
Harris, B. (1996) Tibetan Voices: A traditional memoir. Eds: H. Wardle , B. Harris, I. Marrs, C.S. Koller. Pomegranate, San Francisco, U.S.A.

Wednesday, June 4, 2014

World's top 5?

Inner Mongolia (or Nei Mongol) is another of the huge automonous regions of China. Inner Mongolia borders Mongolia, to the west of Beijing. H

In the regions capital Hohhot one can stay at the Water Moon Hotspring hotel, tripadvisor states, though I'm not totally certain whether or not that really is the case.

World famous Wiener
Apparently it was once stated on internet that once used to state:

'There are many hot springs in Inner Mongolia, including the world famous five'.
However, whether this info is now considered useless or whether it's just a case of the internet evolving in directions unknown it remains a question. However if true, the hot spring named Wiener Creek is just one of those 5. The Chinatravel website used to add to the above sentence:
'Located in the middle of Xilu Wei Nahan Daxinganling mountains mountains in the Wiener River mineral field, there are seven springs arranged in the context of more than ten square meters, and some very clear and clean spring water, some were white, some brown-yellow, water temperature were 2 ° ~ 6 ° C, the water quality with world-famous French spa Vichy comparable. They generate strong in much of ancient Tertiary volcanic activity, was Mongolia, Oroqen, Ewenki called “Shen Shui.” Have been developed using universal spring, spring stomach, acid springs, the heart of spring (above 4 springs for drinking spring), the first spring, ear, nose spring, seven medicinal springs bathing spring, about 40 tons per day and night flow can be bath treatment for 45 thousand people used to drink. Mineral water contains more than 230 kinds of minerals, on dozens of chronic diseases have a significant effect'.
Natgeo
The UNESCO designated Hexigten National Geopark contains the Reshuitang thermal spring, another of the mentioned 'world famous five' as well as a number of other geological phenomena. 
Reshuitang is located 30 km north of Jingpeng. Jingpeng is the site of a famous railway pass. According to tripadvisor there is a hotel named Yangguan Hot Spring Hotel
More on Reshui can be found here including this last sentence:
'At present, there have been 10 hot spring sanatoriums. This hot spring town which is beside the mountain and water has beautiful scenes'.
This website adds:
'The hot spring was developed 1.000 years ago.In the Liao Dynasty Emperor Taizong and his successors had baths in the spring water In 1686, Emperor Kangxi of the Qing Dynasty visited the hot spring and took a bath. The site where the Qing emperor bathed remains today'.
Visitors though might want to look up the info on tripadvisor. As this recent poster experiences:
'Unfortunately the hot springs in the town square have been closed for many years and the hot springs in a big hotel with a hot swimming pool were also closed.
...
The huge stone at the entrance of the town announced that this town is famous for hot springs, but no hot springs were open, apparently they only open in May. So don't go there before May, at least I could find a hotel with hot baths, so that was my hot springs experience!! '
More fame
On Ning hot spring, another of those famous 5, there is nothing additional mentioned.

On the hot spring of Liangcheng located near Daihai Lake, Liangcheng county
'Located in the mountains of central Inner Mongolia, Han Liangcheng Daihai very hot, because legend of Emperor Kangxi, when the patrol side spring mount thirst in this plane, also known as “spring plow horse,” Temple has been built Yongxiang, aristocrats, celebrities Ascot and the monk Lama bathing resort of convalescence. Underground water is a sodium bicarbonate-based weak mineralization of water, water temperature 37 ° ~ 38 ° C, rich in lithium, zinc, strontium, radium, metasilicate, selenium, iron, magnesium, sulfur and other chemical elements and minerals substances, rheumatism, rheumatoid, skin diseases, low back pain, dry skin and other diseases have a significant effect'. source
Apparently there's now a hotel named Daihai Hot Spring Hotel. What can one expect
'Daihai Tourist Area is mainly composed of three parts - Daihai Hot Spring Resort, Daihai Tourist Resort and Daihai Hot Spring Hotel. In recent years, great investment has been made on the Daihai Scenic Area. It has built several hotels, Daihai Tourist Center, Daihai Spa City, Daihai Ski Resort and Daihai Cultural Tourism School and other projects. Now the 130 square km area around Daihai Lake is a suitable place for leisure, conference and sightseeing.
Daihai Hot Spring Resort( or Daihai Spa City) is just 500meters north of Daihai Hot Spring Hotel, about 10km in the west of Liangcheng County. The Daihai Hot Spring Resort is a Japanese style garden building with 4 indoor hot spring pools. The Daihai Spa City is located at the foot of Manhan Mountain with plentiful hot spring resources. The hot spring temperature is mild and comfortable ranging from 40 degrees to 60 degrees. There are 17 kinds of minor elements in the hot spring water. It is good for the treatment of the pain in low back and legs with rheumatism. The Daihai Hot Spring is often regarded as "Holy Hot Spring Beyond the Great Wall".
The accompanying photo's though reveal a rather dour inside soaking area with yes a fake Japanese touch. This blogger has visited here and leaves this strange comment:
'Otherwise I loved Liangcheng (well one of the small villages surrounding area): we stayed in a Japanese style hotel with its hot springs, almost every family has its own dairy cow, and it’s incredibly easy!'
And a top ski
Arxan (Aershan) is the most mentioned hot spring in Inner Mongolia. Better known for it's ski area (see Ten Best Places for Skiing in China), Arxan is apparently also home to a hot spring museum. I'm not totally sure if this is what a museum means:
'The museum will feature different sites including the Arxan hot springs, volcanoes, as well as bizarre lakes and stones.
The museum locates outside Arxan city, a Chinese frontier town southwest to Daxinganling Region, the city boasts the largest and best-kept volcano basalt physiognomy and the world's largest hot springs used for drinking and bathing.
One of the area's most spectacular sites is a concentration of 48 hot springs that are classified into three different types and four different temperature levels'.(source)
Another aspect that makes Arxan hot springs famous are that it is the largest group of radon hot springs in China (source, link not functional). It is also noted that the local stream is ice-free during winter (source).

Despite all the factual claims to fame there seems precious little photographic evidence of any soaking available. A couple of indoor sites fake Japanese style. One going by the name Haishen Hotspring Hotel (located on Hotspring street). Though this seems attractive enough:


Arxan seems a great place to do nothing:
'AereShan is a famous Mongolian hot Springs area. There is a hot spring for every body organ. The area is all beautiful mountains. We went for a drive into the mountains and wow. Wild flowers. Rivers. Mountains. There is not much to see in the town, so this is an area to relax, use the hot springs, and learn the history'.
That description seems quite compelling. Whether or not this will remain is possible not the case. A recent news article suggested that Aershan will be the focus of Sino-Icelandic geothermal investment.

Thursday, August 29, 2013

Soaking on the steppe

The Mongols and their baths
In the ever expanding list of highlighted countries, being vaguely in the direction of the Himalaya seems to compel this blogs' author to churn out another summation of possible soak sites. In this respect the country referred to as Mongolia is next in line.
So have I determined.

Having a culture which partially stems from the other side of the Himal seems to be a major swaying point to include Mongolia as an entry in this blog, though no doubt images conjured of soakers viewing the rolling steppe limited only by the end of the horizon has a great part to do with aforementioned decision. But will this remain a dream?

Mongolia, we learn, is not a real geothermally active place but nontheless the readable article on harnessing the nation's warmth (Tseesuren, 2001) does list 40 odd hot springs. Though seen mostly from the perspective of possible future power generation it does briefly touch on Mongolian soakers.
'People have used hot springs for bathing and washing clothes since the dawn of civilisation in many parts of the world. In the same way, Mongolia has a considerable experience in health resorts using geothermal water'.
This expression seems to contrast with what seems to be a commonality within Mongolia: the lack of a bathing culture as such. No doubt with the temperature being exceedingly cold most of the year, bathing may not be Mongolians number 1 love. Then again the same temperature must surely make soaking in hot water irresistible to most.


Following is a list of over 40 hot springs which Tseesuren (2001) sums up but to which I've been unable to add any additional info. These little known hot springs are Utaat Minjuur (Domod province (or aimag)), Bol Tal, Chuluut, Tsagaan Sum, Gyalgar, Noyon (all Arkhangai), Tsetsuuh, Zaart, Khojuul, Otgontenger, Ulaan Khaalga (Zavkhan), Euruu (Selenge), Saikhan Khulj (Bulgan), Khamar, Gyatruun, Sharga, Emt (Uvurkhangai), Tsokhiot, Uheg, Örgööt (Bayankhongor), Bulgan (Khovd), Gants mog, Chihert (Bayan Ulgii), Salbart, Urtrag, Tsuvraa and Khunjil (Khuvsgul).

Also note the excellent Bradt Mongolia guide (author Jane Blunden) which has an overview of over 80 hot and cold Mongolian springs (see also appendix).


Zanabazar the zoaker?
While trying to find more on hot springs in Mongolia there's no avoiding Don Croner's
blog on Zanabazar, Mongolia's first Bogd Gegen or religious leader. While living back in the 16th and 17th century, besides relieving spiritual needs, he seems to have been a penchant soaker (see for instance this blogs entry on Qinghai). Happy Mongolia mentions:

'According to tradition, Zanabazar identified up to twenty individual mineral springs here and gave very specific instructions on how they were to be used'.
The same site adds some additional info for the spiritual soaker:
'The best time to use the springs is in the spring or autumn, and and for a full treatment they should be used daily for regimens of twenty-one, twenty-seven, or thirty-one days. Odd-numbered days are considered better. Also, there is one day in each month which is thought to be the most beneficial to use the springs, for example the eighth day of the eighth month, according to the Tibeto-Mongolian lunar calendar'.
I wonder whether more is known about best soaking days. Are they dependent on a lunar calender of sorts?

Zanabazar had a few favourite soaking sites. Don on his travails to retrace Zanabazar steps is often ending at hot springs. The hot spring(s) of Onon (Khentli province) seem a favourite. Don:
'... it was Zanabazar, the First Bogd Gegeen of Mongolia (1635–1723) who reportedly first studied the medicinal properties of the Onon Hot Springs Complex. They are thought to be especially suited for treating lower back problems, which is why Zegvee and I came here. There are nine bathhouses at the Hot Springs, each with water of differing water temperatures. The usual course of treatment is to soak in the cooler hot springs and then proceed to the hotter ones'.
Don does have more info:
'Here are at least fourteen different mineral springs, some of them with boiling-hot water, and several bathhouses. Two of the larger springs, both enclosed by bathhouses, are called Ikh Tsenkher and Baga Tsenkher (“Big Blue” and “Little Blue”), names reportedly given to them by Zanabazar himself, The springs here are famous for treating diseases and afflictions of the lower body: knees (mud packs taken from near the springs are especially good for knee joints), lower back pain, kidney and liver problems, and also rheumatism and sore muscles in general'.
'View of the Hot Springs'
Other info on Onon hot spring:
'The hottest spring of Mongolia is Onon's hot spring with temperature of 70-80°. Its ingredients are chloride, hydro-carbonate, natrium and magnum and it is pellucid liquid that tastes and smells like sulfur-hydroxide.
This spring has been used to cure illnesses such as central and peripheral nerve system diseases, joint diseases, skin diseases, injury and wound.

Setsen khan Sholoi's barn that was built during the 13th century remained till recent time and at that time of khan's only dignitaries used to own the spring and use it in a suitable time of year when it is good for treatment.

Good men who were considered to be heroes of this time used to boil raw frozen meat in this hot spring. At present, people are working to create a comfortable environment at this place and many searches have been made in order to use this hot spring for treatment'.
Another of Zanabazar's haunts was Khujirt (or Khujert, Uvurkhangai aimag).
'Zanabazar was a renowned polymath who applied his energy to the study of a staggering array of subjects. One of his interests was the medicinal properties of hot springs. He is known to have studied the waters of least four hot spring complexes in Mongolia and no doubt he himself took advantage of their curative and restorative powers.
While traveling between the monastery of Baruun Khüree and his workshop at Tövkhon Zanabazar would have had numerous opportunities to stop at the extensive hot springs complex at Khujirt, on the edge of the Orkhon Valley. According to locals it was he who first studied the medicinal properties of these springs. Khujirt, located between what is now the popular tourist attraction of Erdene Zuu and the famous Orkhon Waterfall in the upper Orkhon Valley and easily accessible by road from Ulaan Baatar, is today a major resort with a sanatorium, hotels, and ger camps'.
The above is attributed to the zanabazar.mn site's highlight of Zanabazar's hot spring hide-outs. Don has more on Khujirt.
Otherwise there is this to add on Khujirt hot spring:

'Khujirt is a sanatorium of hot spring (54.5 C) and mud treatment, found in the territory of Khujirt soum of Ovorkhangai Province at 2660 m ASL, 420 km from Ulaanbaatar, 80 km from Arvaikheer and 54 km from Kharkhorin. The hot spring was used by local people starting from many centuries ago. The water has the smell of sulphur, has no color and it is rich in sodium, calcium. Khujirt is one of the first State sanatorium of Mongolia for treatment of nervous, gynecology, kidney, bone, heart and other ailments. The sanatorium has recently opened a special section for foreign tourists. And there is a tourist ger camp not far from the sanatorium. The area is excellent for hiking'. (source: non-functioning)
Finally it was the hot spring of Estiyn (Yestin) which Zanabazar also frequented.
'While overseeing the construction of Saridag Khiyd (see above-below) from 1654 to 1680 Zanabazar would have ample opportunities to visit Estiyn Rashaan (rashaan = mineral springs) twelve miles to the northwest. According to tradition he identified here up to twenty individual mineral springs and determined the medicinal properties of each. Even now some of the springs have small signs in Tibetan indicating what the water is to be used for, including ailments of the heart, teeth, eyes (one for the left eye and one for the right), nerves, nose, ears, innards, lungs, and so on. There are also two log bath houses with bathing pits. Herdsmen from the Tuul and Kherlen valleys still here by horse to take cures and retreats. My horseman when I visited here told me his cousin came here for seven days after a bad fall from a horse and after bathing daily in the bath houses came away cured. Locals also maintain that bathing in the larger of the baths will atone for big sins, while bathing in the smaller one atones for little sin'.
Efficiency
The most well-known hot spring of Mongolia seems to be
Tsenkher. It even has (had?) it's own organisation, Hot Spring Water’s Efficiency Association, though this seems / seemed more dedicated to exploiting greenhouses than encouraging soaking. The sole references date back to 2008.
Besides the organisation there's also mention made of the following:
'Mongolian “Bridge” Group and Japanese “Tsagaan Sogoo” company established the “Tsenkher Jiguur” tourist camp in 1995 pursuing two main goals, the development of tourism based on a hot spa, which is situated in Tsenkher sum of Arkhangai prefecture and the contribution to the local area development ... Please, take off your clothes first, then have a shower and be clean before you bathing in a hot spring! For hygienic purposes it is regulatory to take bath naked in the hot spa.'
That said, there is little proof of nakedness. On internet at least.

Apparently Tsenkher is increasingly commercially exploited. This organisation runs a 'camp':
'“Tsenkher Jiguur” tourist camp is situated in the north of 480 km-s from Ulaanbaatar capital, in the north west of 120 km-s from Khara Khorum tourism destination. The tourist camp is comfortable one, located in the foot of forestry hills with beautiful nature view, neighboring to hot spa. The camp’s capacity is 20 ger rooms, 7 hotel rooms with heating system, which are capable to provide service for 80 persons simultaneously. There Mongolian and European meals are served in Ger restaurant.
The Japanese styled inside and outside hot spa baths are made with original stones and rocks from the nature, so this bath makes people to feel the real natural spa environment and make them to relax and refresh very well. During bathing in outside spa bath travelers can observe glittering stars in the sky in nighttime. There guests have a nice chance to watch national concert with songs and dances, as well as to participate in camp fire works, are able to be provided with service of beauty saloon, massage and sauna.
The springing out of deep earth hot spa contains simple alkaline structure of sodium of sulphuric acid with phtalic and with temperature of 86.5 degrees warmth. Spouting out speed is 10 liters per a second. This spa is very useful for treating any injuries, wound, radicle, fatique and depression, therefore, guests and indigenous people use it with much respect.
In its surrounding area it is absolutely suitable to explore the picturesque nature view, to pick up flowers, to catch butterflies, arrange hiking, horseback trekking tours. Also it is considerably possible for exploring nomads lifestyle, nomadic civilization, riding yaks, catching horse, making horses calm, milking mares and cows, preparing milk products. In wintertime tourists like to have hot spa bath and trek on snow covered hills. Also in spring time tourists can explore Traditional New Year Holiday-White Month and participate in hunting wolves [!]'.
Relax and refresh with dancing with wolves?
Tsenkher hot spring (source).

Not all is so delightful, take this case:
'The "baths" were dirty (and filled with big Mongolian men), the changing rooms were full of flies (see video), ...'.
One (recent) review on tripadvisor which despite the three stars seems less benevolent in description:
'N47°19'8.8" E101°39'16.8" This tourist gercamp has a new modern design hot spring house with separate inside and outside pools for men and women, although apartheid in the outside pools is not enforced. Staff was clearly absent all the time. Towels too. No cleaning was done at all, and the next day the floors were still dirty. Pools were not being kept at the right temperature. Showers and toilets were malfunctioning. All the camp guests use the only showers working, because there aren't any in the ablution block. Without skilled staffing, proper cleaning and adequate maintenance, this new hot spring house will be out of service in a few years'.
Others tend to disagree:
'I’d give Tsenkher hotsprings a 9 out 10'.
'Teel Rashaan (Hot Springs) on the Olziit River. Water is said to be good for digestive problems'. Photo by Don Croner.

On the map
Lesser well known are the following hot springs.
Eustii
(Tuv province):
'Estii rashaan is a hot spring (+34°c) in the valley of the Estii River'.(source)
Khuremt (Uvurkhangai province):
'The Khuremt hot spring has been used since ancient times. Components include bicarbonate and sodium. The maximum temperature of the water reaches 58.8C. There are 10 streams, and the spa water is used for extremities and nervous diseases'. source
Mogoit or Khangain Tsagaan Chuluu (Uvurkhangai province):
'Khangain Tsagaan Chuluu. Is a picturesque white and marble rock on the south east side of the hot spa at Mogoit. It is over 10 meters high taken by someone because of worshipped rock'. (source: link no longer working)
There are also a few photo's on flickr (not interesting enough(?) to repost here). 

Is Mogod the same (Bulgan aimag):
'Elegant Private Stone Bath at the Hot Spring Resort in Mogod, Bulgan Aimag. The facilities, while rustic are very well maintained and the water is fantastic. The only hot spring I've visited in Mongolia that is comparable to a Japanese Onsen. The rooms are simple but comfortable, the gers not quite as nice. Very few foreign tourists, but lots of Mongolian families. The valley setting is lovely. Highly recommended'. Source
Taats (Tsaats?) hot spring has received funding from UNDP's GEF to initiate 'development'. Also located in Uvurkhangai province.

Teel hot spring (see photo above this paragraph) is located in Bayankhongor province.
Shivert (Arkhangai province) seems to be Mongolia's only really developed hot spring. Visit the website of Hasu Shivert resort (devloped doesn't necessarily imply that website is maintained ...) to find the following text:
'Shivert Resort provides state-of-the art wellness center built around natural hot springs. Our staff team is dedicated to answer all your questions and needs during your stay. Newly renovated facility [2009] includes outdoor pools, natural treatment centers, sports facilities, large conference and dining rooms all in the middle of wilderness of Mongolia'.
Despite the development, not much to be found.
Khaluun us (or Tsenkheriin, Zavkhan province):
'...remarkable Hot Spa of Tsenkheriin Khaluun Us , which is now serving as a health spa for tourists, it lies 30 kms south of Tsetserleg town. The water of Tsenkheriin Khaluun Us spring is remarkably hot at +86.5 C and contains hydrogen sulfide'. (source)
P7051502

Photo by smee:
'Mongolia. Hot Spa of Tsenkheriin Khaluun Us - 30 kilometers south of Tsetserleg town. The Shiveet Mankhan tourist camp in the back'.
Bulnai (Khuvsgul province) hot spring resort is described as
'... offering simple cabins around a former Soviet resort'.
A first hand experience:
'I was thinking more of a geyser in the ground - the 'springs' were situated in little wooden huts and were basically just a rectangular hole cut in the wooden floor containing very hot water. The baths came in temperature grades of 38, 43 and 48 degrees centigrade and although you were not permitted to take in soap or shower gel, we spent a good 30 minutes just soaking and trying to expunge the dirt we had accumulated from the previous few days' riding'.
AsiatoEurope2011 in Bulnai (note many springs are hotter):
'Here we are in 28C:'

Bugat hot spring (Bayan Ulgii province) is a hot spring not included in Tseesuren's (2001) list. This web site once added (not working anymore) to the precise coordinates:
'It is a hydro carbonat sulfas natrii hot spring'.
Tsagaan gol (Bayan Ulgii province):
'Locals come to this hot spring to have medical baths and drink the water. There are small wooden houses for hot baths'. source
Commercial property?
The hot spring of Jargalant sum (or Jalga, presumed to be in Khuvsgul province; Jargalan / Khunjil?):
'This hot spring smells and tastes little bit sulfate, transparent, it flows through various stones, like kidney-stones, very thick placed sandy soil. Nearby beautiful high mountains and amazing forest, which has different trees, like pines, ebony, asp, cedar are around the hot spring. Temperature of the hot spring’s water is 45-50C hot'.(source)
More info:
'Jargal Jiguur hot springs, sulphar springs that emerge from the ground (150m) at 70 degrees Celsius. Facilities include outdoor baths (male and female), showers and accommodation'.
It does seem that Jargal Jiguur was the commercial name for Khunjil, the prize winning text of which goes as follows:
'Nestled amid 70 Celsius natural mineral springs, with a knowledgeable, friendly, and professional staff, Jargal Jiguur offers an amazing spa experience. At this premier choice of Jargal Jiguur spas, cascading waters nurture more than skin and body -- they soothe the heart and soul. Visit our recently renovated, Japanese-style spa. Select from a bountiful array of soothing treatments from full body massages to anti-fatigue treatments. Whether you desire a dip in one of our naturally heated mineral spas or a private massage, you ’ll enjoy it in soul-relaxing fashion at our Jargal Jiguur hot springs spa resort'.
Could it be Khunjil?
'Khunjil (mostly known Jargal) is a natural hot spring flows out whole year from the ground at 70 Celsius degree in mountainous North Mongolia. It is located 1580m a.s.l and in 730 km from Ulaanbaatar capital city, over 180 km south-west of Murun town in Khuvsgul province and 5 km south west Jargalant village'.  
The same source adds:
'There is only one tourist camp which is offering for tourists outdoor baths. They transfer the hot water via tubes and built some pools. Curative water and amazing nature featured by wooden mountains make this an excellent place for relax. Night bath is great. Sitting in the pool drinking while seeing stars at the dark sky is one of the favorite activity in here. The open air-baths are recommended'.
Last
Shargaljuut hot spring is a more often visited and more developed hot spring in Bayankhongor aimag. This web site describes Shargaljuut as 'well-known' and 'popular among Mongolians'.


And now we return to the aforementioned vision of soaking in Mongolia. This blogger had a different vision (oh, link not working):
'Upon entering the Shargaljuut springs, it immediately struck us that it was not as developed as we had hoped for. We had dreamt of large pools of water, immaculate service and Russian saunas. None of that. We had to cross some smaller rivers, made it this time, and ended up in a very basic ger camp. The hot springs are symbolic for the Mongol approach. Leaking tubes, old wooden gers, rundown buildings, unclear directions and too many people just hanging about. A hot spring was nothing more than a standard bath in a ger, to be filled with water. However, it must be said the water was fantastic and we felt like new'.
Lazy overachiever has also something to say on Shargaljuut and it is not a thank you to Lonely Planet! But nothing about gers. This website adds a photo which shows both gers as well as a building or two:


The Dutch broadcaster BNN has  a visit to what they attribute as the Tsenkher hot spring, which seems very incorrect as it is quite obviously Shargaljuut. This is the video, the visit starts at 2:20. Floortje Dessing arrives in high spirits but after seeing the docter and the poor state of facilities might have chickened out were she not there to fill her programme ...

 It also has a Facebook site (188 likes)!


'Our private hot spring bath: luxury old school Russian bath tubs hiding inside'.
Shargaljuut, taken in 2005 by Martijnopdemotor.

[Updated August 2013]

Notes:
Tseesuren, B. (2001) Geothermal Resources in Mongolia and Potential Uses. United Nations University. Geothermal Training Programme. Reports 2001, no. 15. Reykjavík, Iceland

Appendix:
Mongolia's hot springs as according to Blunden (2008). Note that she also lists many other springs which may well be hot. But here are those she does mention specifically:
Övörkhangai aimag: Khujirt, Mogoit, Khüremt, Emt; 
Arkhangai aimag: Shivert; 
Bayankhongor: Shargaljuut, Örgööt, Ükheg; 
Khövsgöl: Bulnai; 
Zavkhan: Otgontenger, Ulaankhaalga, Zart; 
Bulgan: Khulj; 
Selenge: Yestiin Gol, Yöröö; 
Khovd: Nevt, Bulgan; 
Bayan-Ölgii: Gantsmod; 
Khentii: Onongiin Ikh Rashaan; 
Dornod: Utaatminchüür
 

Monday, April 30, 2012

Getting high. Introducing Tibet


Tirdum hot spring, by Ying

Tibet's soaks
The area known as Tibet Autonomous Region (TAR) is a vast area covering the huge mountainous plains north of the Himalaya divide.

As one would expect, both the immenseness as well as the mountainous terrain give a huge potential for thermal activity. Mushroom expert Daniel Winkler mentions more than 1000 possible hot springs!
The Travel Guide to Tibet of China (see note 1) mentions
'... geologists have found over 630 geothermal spots'.
All noted, pinpointing the exact soaks is not an easy task. Tourism is limited, the local population mostly dispersed. That means that finding those thousand springs on the internet is most probably not going to be achieved.

Sites containing Tibet soak sites lists are near non-existent.
Probably the only website other than this site with notes on Tibetan hot springs is that by the aforementioned danielwinkler.com, though these are mostly references to soaks in the Ganzi Tibet, a prefecture of Sichuan province, not Tibet proper.

Elsewhere, the significance of Tibetan hot springs is highlighted as there are two mentions in China's Top 10 Most Popular Hot Spring Resorts, the same list as others refer to as China's Most Romantic hot springs, even though one of the two listed permits gender separate only bathing. Very romantic!

What is clear is that the aforementioned dearth of accessible info seems to contrast both with local penchant for soaking as well as increased popularity of soaking in China.
My impression from accessing hundreds of websites on the subject of Tibetan soaks, is that the Chinese favour an organized hot spring whereas the local population simply savour the opportunity and benefits a local (if somewhat rustic) soak may provide.

Somewhere in Tibet. By Songpinghan:
'Buddha monks taking a bath in hot spring water'. (not working)
Bliss
Bathing experiences are on a whole quite diverse. Fox on the Run sums up his quest for a soak as follows:
'I have to admit I got a bit confused by the whole hot spring issue in Tibet. For me, the term hot spring conjures up images of bubbling pools, either natural or of the "cement pond" type, where you can lie back and let the hot water work on your aching muscles, preferably while you sip on a cocktail. We encountered several hot springs during this trip, none of which even came close to my mental image. For the most part they were like little streams coming out of the ground, sometimes creating puddles and usually just building interesting mineral formations. They were definitely not big enough to comfortably climb into. In some locations, industrious locals would build bath houses where the hot water was piped into stalls either through shower heads or directly into tubs. In these places you could at least get clean, but there was no lounging around with friends in your bathing suits enjoying a drink and a soak'.
That typified Tibetan soak however is not as typical.

These intrepid travellers savour the soak reluctantly, but though they may not be so positive, the experience is so much purer. Or so it seems:
'Finally we found what looked like a women’s pool. A bunch of ladies were just leaving, including one girl who spoke Hindi and had just returned from Bylekuppe, a massive Tibetan settlement near my home town in India! Conscious of offending local women but tempted by the water, I nervously stripped down to my undergarments and waded in. This water was just right (am beginning to sound like Goldilocks now!) Soon two nuns arrived on the scene. They told me that they had walked for two hours over the hills just to soak. They started to strip. I had never realized how many layers of clothing nuns wore…it went on and on…and then suddenly they were naked. I was traumatized…it was like seeing the Shankaracharya or Mother Teresa nude!
Then a bunch of ladies arrived with their pink cheeked snotty nosed offspring. The women wore some elaborate braids with turquoise and ribbons. Some had thick woolen capes and had obviously not bathed for quite a while. They all stripped down to basics too. Now Cat and I were overdressed! The mothers dunked their squalling kids in the water and scrubbed them mercilessly. It was increasingly merry. The nuns taught me the names of different polite body parts in Tibetan (I got over my blushes pretty quickly) and all the ladies were giggling and pointing at us. Occasionally some mother would blow her baby’s nose and a wad of snot would float by. The boys from the men’s section were really curious about the naked ladies and were trying to peek over the wall. I was worried about how the nuns would react to this, but they were blissfully unconcerned! We sat there in happy harmony until our skins started to wrinkle'.
This experience by Banjara concerns the hot springs of Tridum / Tidum, which elsewhere I discovered to be considered as:
'... one of the cleanest natural hot spring in Tibet'!
On an entirely different note, many Tibetan hot springs existing at high altitude have resulted in there being distinct micro-climates with bacteria, plant and wildlife not seen elsewhere (1).


To make the soak listings more accessible I've kept to listings of hot springs by prefecture.

More or less.

Notes:
(1) refers to the anonymous publication entitled Travel Guide to Tibet of China, published in 2003 by China International Press.