Tuesday, June 21, 2011

The mundane

Hou Yi's wife
The mountainous province of Yunnan is home to not only a diverse selection of minorities it is also home to many hot springs. In this blog entry I will be focusing on the regions with less hot springs to the South and West of the province's capital, Kunming.

Starting off by going south east, Yuxi prefecture, contains another high number of hot springs.
 
Dayinjie (Hongta district), a 15 minute drive from Yuxi city, is reputed to be the home of many a hot spring. Chris Horton writes:
'The nicest of these is Moon Lake, comprised of a series of 12 pools with different herbs, mineral salts, and liquors to soak away a day'.
Note that there is also accommodation in Dayin(jie) called Moon Lake Hot Spring Hostel (tripadvisor).
'Moon Lake Spa is a traditional Japanese-style hot spring resort, a blend of the most traditional spa culture and the most fashionable casual concept, promote health, recreation and ecological balance, the nature of the clear sky and hot springs leisurely leisure appropriate to bring every visitor, for the love of life and health of people has created an oasis in a bustling city' (source link since original posting in 2011 not working).
Probably the most prosaic description includes this:
'As the saying goes: Chang-e Xiafan only look for home on earth, Hou Yi's wife up on why the palace of heaven - to the Chinese Restaurant Tam!'
? Well, I bet it makes more sense in Chinese (I hope).

Elsewhere in Dayinjie is the hot spring of Yingyuetan (tripadvisor). This should not be confused with the Yingyue hot spring of Chongqing. People's Daily (August 16, 2013) adds:
'The full name of Yingyuetan Hot Spring is Yingyuetan Leisure and Cultural Center. It is located in the Daying Street of Yuxi City. It consists of Yingyuetan Hot Spring, Yingyuetan Water Fitness Center, Gratitude Shopping Street, Yingyue Hot Spring Inn, Sakya Cultural Garden and Yuquan Temple.
While you are in a spring pool, you can hear the sound of fountain, and look at the beautiful moon and shining stars. You will have a wonderful night here'.
And Bailong (hot?) spring (tripadvisor). It's listed under geysers / hot springs, so ...

Anyway this person went to a hot spring near Yuxi (but no name) and mentions:

'Yesterday, most of us decided to visit a local hot spring."Having never been to a hot spring in China, I was excited about relaxing in a mountain pool, getting a massage, and generally spending the afternoon in a stupor.Our "hot spring" was not that sort of place. Instead, we found an odd mix of a public pool and an amusement park. We began the afternoon with "bump bump boats," basically floating bumper cars. These only cost us about $1 USD and fell into the category of awesome, dangerous activities that cannot be found in the US (see my earlier post on the Great Wall slide)'.
Lakeside
The Zaojie (or
Zhaojia) hot springs (Jiangchuan county) see little internet reference though Angsana hotels:
'Zaojie Hot Spring is situated at the foot of Lijia Hill in Jiangchuan County. A unique group of hot springs can be found along the banks of Fuxian Lake and Xingyun Lake, with closely packed spring openings stretching from one point to another in the village. There are springs with double openings and small pools with just a single opening. The strongest flow of water is concentrated at a point with six openings. It is certainly not an exaggeration to say that a spring opening can be found around every corner in the village. The water, which is of a carbonate composition, is clear and refreshing, and ideal for both drinking and bathing. Water temperatures generally range from 20℃ to 30℃. The difference in temperature between the two springs that are furthest apart is as large as 9℃. It is believed that drinking from the pool and bathing in it regularly is an effective way of relieving rheumatism'.
This link continues:
'The Xingyun Lake [also known as Nebula lake] has many hot springs, such as the Luozhipu [or Luosipu] Hot-spring located in Zhaojiawan on the east, and the Haixicun Hot-spring and Shuangjing Hot-spring on the west. From north to south, 5 springs lie in a line. A peculiar thing is that the temperature of these springs is increasing from the north one to the south one, with a total difference of 8 to 9 C. These hot springs are ideal bathing places as well as rest and recuperate resorts along the Xingyun Lake'.
In the same county is also the Fish Spring (tripadvisor) as well as a reference to Shenyu hot spring:
'The village is called Xujiatou Village and it is bestowed with rich hot-spring resources. In the village there is a stone-paved road on both of which houses from late Qing Dynasty are lined. Among the springs scattered in the village there is one called Shenyu Spring'.
This link though explains Shenyu means divine fish and fish live in the spring probably meaning that this is not a hot spring. The link does add:
'In the area, there are also sewage fish and toilet fish, which makes up amazing fish culture'.
In fact yunnanadventure.com adds :
'The water of the Shenyu Spring remains between 28 ℃ to 30 ℃ round the year. Now there are 300 black carps in the spring'.
So a warm spring. No soaking by the way.

Hot and warm
Another purportedly not so hot spring is to be found in Tonghai county, the Warm Water Pond. The same
source also has a reference to the Hot Water Pond of Chengjiang county. Chengjiang also has hot springs in Haikouxiang, the hot water cave of Luchong and the hot water river of Jiucun (source). Though I believe these would be located near the above mentioned Xingyun lake, Mansfield and Walters [1] mention Jiucun village on Fuxian lake as having 'attractive' hot springs.

The aforementioned chinakunming.travel also adds the existence of a hot spring in Meiyun Lao’ao Village (Yimen County).
Wana hot spring is located in Yuanjiang county, apparently development is needed (link not working).

Perrier
Eshan county as far as this blog knows has three hot springs. The lesser known is that of Dalongtan (source). The other lesser known hot spring is Baoquan (source).



More well known is Tianzi (Tianziyuan) hot spring which is a rather large bathing facility with a connected hotel (tripadvisor).
'The spring is rich in geothermal water resources and the temperature is between 39 – 43 ℃ around the year. The water is abundant in calcium, magnesium, zinc, strontium, and oxygen, which is supposed to be good for health and keeping good looks with medical effects' (source).
The eastern most county, Huaning, has the famous hot spring of Xiangbi (or Elephant Trunk Mountain) hot spring which is 8 km from from Huaning county:
'Xiangbi Hot-spring was developed in East Han Dynasty which was about 2,000 years ago. The water temperature remains between 39℃ to 41℃. The water quality is of high level that can be used for bathing as well as drinking. According to a state appraisal, there are 24 microelements in the water that are essential to human body. Three of the elements, namely metasilicate, strontium and lithium, reach the national standard on drinkable natural spring water. The water also has therapy function' (source).
Angsana.com (link now not working) adds quite a bit including this:
'Its beauty has inspired a poem that goes like this: “Great springs of the universe do not be arrogant, as waters in Wenzhao concede to Huaning'.
Ostensibly it compares quality wise to Perrier! The springs have a large indoor pool (source).

Elsewhere in Huaning, is Tobacco hot spring (tripadvisor).

Updated December 2013
 
Notes
[1] Mansfield, S. and M. Walters (2007) China: Yunnan province. Bradt Travel Guides, Bucks, United Kingdom.

Monday, June 20, 2011

Way Forward

Developing Yunnan
In all, it's said that there are 654 centers of hot springs within Yunnan. The provincial government tourism website, Seeyunnan, purports there to be 700. The Yunnan Provincial Tourism Adminstration has actually set up a site with descriptions of 28 hot springs, all over Yunnan.
Yunnan has a considerable reputation for being a hot spring destination. 
Take the example of Tengchong county where Baoshan is marketed as the hot spring home of China. 
Another aspect in the marketing of Yunnan's hot springs are the fact that they often frequented on a daily basis by locals, though often referred to as minorities. They have been using the springs since time immemorial and have included the soaks in their traditions. What's more they tend to take the waters with little or no shame, a fact which enthralls the hordes of tour groups, rendering this part of the tradition as something of the past. But the legends continue thanks to modern day marketing ...

Embracing tourism not only negatively influences the privacy of the soakers, many a hot spring falls prey to developers who see money in turning nature into concrete (?). 

Much destruction has already taken place. 
On a more positive note the local government seeks to introduce standards for hot spring facilities:
'China Yunnan Tengchong Volcano Atami Tourism Development and Management Corporation, Dianchi Spring Spa, Kunming Spring Soul Garden Spa & Resort , and Kunming Junhao Spa have passed the assessment of the Yunnan Spa and Hot Spring Rating Assessment Committee and have all been awarded five-crown certificates and plates — becoming the first enterprises that have passed the assessment both in Yunnan and in China.
In 2008 Yunnan province published China's first comprehensive set of local hot spring standards, including the Standard for Tourist Hot Spring Sign Usage, Hot Spring Tourism Service Specifications, Hot Spring Tourism Operators Grading and Evaluation, and Spa Operators Grading and Evaluation.
The committee evaluated the business facilities and services, facilities and equipment maintenance, cleaning and service quality, and the management of the four hot spring enterprises'.
Though no doubt well intended, the outcome means that the nominees go upmarket and if not already excluding the locals, they'll become sterile nothings for the well-heeled noveau-riche. Yes, they will be stylish, peaceful and attentive, but isn't the journey there as much if not more important? And what if the like minded are also sterile loving, upward mobilites? Does one seek a mirror of one self?

Around the capital
Well, as you can see in the sidebar menu Hot Soaks of the Himalaya has carved the Yunnan province into bite sizes, each entry representing an administrative division. 
With exception of this entry. 
This blog entry will include much of the hot springs surrounding Yunnan's provincial capital of Kunming.

Deja vu has a nice entry on Kunming and it's surrounding hot springs (2010 edition), listing no less than 18 hot springs, some though will require a better part of a week to visit. 

Let's focus a little more nearby.
Kunming, Yunnan's provincial capital, is known for it's eternal spring: it never get's too hot nor does it stay cold for long: an ideal tourism destination.
There are quite a few hot spring hotels located in and around Kunming. Not clear whether or not these are all natural. the current hausse suggests that some of the resorts may well be cutting corners.
These are
(mostly referenced by tripadvisor):
  • Dianchi Garden Hotel Spa, Kunming (virtual tourist); nearly 300 rooms; Hotspring Tours:
    'Quasi silicate hot spring is available with its water being piped from 1,100 meters under ground'.
  • Tianyi Hot Spring Hotel, Kunming (tripadvisor),
  • Yisite Hot Spring Hotel (tripadvisor),
  • Yunhai Lantianyu Hot Spring (tripadvisor),
  • Yunwu Hot Spring Hotel (tripadvisor),
  • Herton hot sspring hotel (tripadvisor),
  • Eshan Hot Spring hotel, Kunming (tripadvisor)
  • Fude Hot Spring Hot Spring Hotel (tripadvisor),
  • Golden Pond Hot Spring Hotel (tripadvisor),
  • Dali Dongyuan Hot Spring Hotel (tripadvisor),
  • Haigeng Yishan Hot Spring Hotel (tripadvisor),
  • Yangzonghai Brilliant Spa, 37 km from Kunming (website and short description); Hotspring Tours:
    'For those who pursue more comfortable and elegant hot-spring bathing, the recommended one is Brilliant Spa in Yangzong Lake, where one could choose to stay in any of the 26 different spas featured as aroma, forest, therapy and lake view. The spas here are totally natural sulfur hot springs, with water temperature being between 68℃ and 72℃ to make it wholesome. Here, spas of different sizes are equipped with convenient facilities and the price is reasonable. The best hot-spring bathing and intriguing sceneries would be enjoyed in Brilliant Spa Resort'.
  • Xizhu Spa Country Estate, the entry on Hotspring Tours; 15 km northwest of the city.
Most of these have been added in the last 5 years, so expect a lot of swanky buildings, little of substance on the soaks though ... 

Anning
Nearby Anning, 21 km southwest of Kunming, is noted as it has 11 hot springs to invest in. 
Surprisingly in the past, LP has advised travelers to give this place a miss (source).  
Geology.com has a short overview of the characteristics of Anning's hot springs, very informative stuff:
'The welltemperature curves can be grouped into four types,i.e.,the temperature-increasing type,the constant-temperature type,the suddenly increasing-decreasing type and the temperature-increasing-temperature-decreasing type'.
An overview of some of the hot springs of Anning:
  • Jinfang (Golden) Forest Hot Spring is by far the best known, which is listed in China's Top 10 of hot springs. One first hand described visit:
    'Although the hot springs at Senlin are shared, there are enough of them (around 20) to allow for relaxing privacy. Other visitors are generally polite. They also don’t want to share a hot spring that’s occupied. On the other hand, they may be repulsed by the prospect of sharing bathwater with a waiguoren, the all-purpose word for anyone non-Chinese'.
A nice tale from a group of westerners to Anning includes
'Befitting the theme of our trip, every time our group entered a spring, the incumbent Chinese family immediately departed. We didn’t mind. After our trying day, it took 4 hours of physical and spiritual cleansing before we were ready to part from the heavenly warmth of those hot springs. The experience was worth every penny and every wrinkled finger and toe. ...
All in all, one of the most exciting weekends of my life.
-Joel'.
And that's how soaking should be.

Updated May 2015

Sunday, June 19, 2011

China's outback?

Welcome
East of Baoshan lies Dehong AP, a prefecture with mostly minority inhabitants in a corner with Burma.

The city of Luxi (or Mang(xi), Dehong's prefectural seat) is mentioned as having the Daijingxiang Hot Spring Hotel which is located in Fapa (tripadvisor and looks very posh) as well as the Fapa Hot Spring Village (tripadvisor).

Eight kms from Luxi is Pago Mans Hot Spring resort:
' ... a group of hot springs, water temperature around 46 ℃, flow stability, clear spring water, water does not contain harmful elements. Get-together in 1956 during the Sino-Burmese border between China and Myanmar Prime Minister and the guests have to welcome home. In recent years, new resorts, equipment, more complete' (source).
Elsewhere in Mang/Luxi is the more rustic Luxi Shudong hot spring (source). At a distance of 25 km is the Bamboo River hot spring (source).

Fame
Odd, a Luxi hot spring located further away in the direction of Ruili county is mentioned as
'China's five famous nude bathing customs (中国五大著名裸浴风俗)' (source).
Another website lists this spring in its China's most famous nude bathing, surprisingly with very a photo of very conservatively dressed ladies!

Unfortunately the name is not so translatable, it could well be the "Collapse of the Dragon". It's pretty well-known. It is a hot spring that once was beside a banyan tree but is now partially under it. One can enter these holes and bath under the tree as well as the adjacent pond. This Chinese language
website also has a couple of photo's (though no mention of soaking couture). Reference is given to it being in Mangbang which rings a bell. This blog mentions Meichan hot spring, Mangbang, Zhefangzhen. A look at a map puts Zhefang between Riuli and Luxi / Mang close to the Burmese border. Looks very idyllic (below).

A great photo shoot, this is regarded as China's top 5 skinny dips?

Molified

Others mention the above hot spring as Longchi, but all web searches link through to a hot spring in Sichuan. Some mention even Moli as in Moli Tropical Rainforest Eco-tourism Area. Then again not so sure. Possibly a totally different hot spring. From this website:
'Moli Tropical Rain Forest Area is a national 4A scenic area, and was constructed by Taiwanese businessman Zhan Maosheng. It is located in Moli Valley in the northwest of Wanrui Bridge and is about 21 kilometers away from the downtown Ruili. The entire area is in a small basin with an altitude of 940 meters.
It covers an area of about 7 square kilometers. It is pleasant and sunny there with a tropical rainforest climate. By taking advantage of the existing natural landscape, forest resources and hot spring energy, builders has created a comprehensive ecological tourism area integrating functions of holidays, scientific research, rehabilitation, leisure and entertainment'.
So now we are in Ruili county. Close by to the collapsed dragon (or Zhefang) is Law Pa hot spring. This website shows a big cement pool with (if I read the translation correctly) a men and a women's pool. This website mentions a joint venture and presents a photographic overview of the not so enticing surroundings.
Link
Riuli county also counts the Bada Hot Spring Hotel (tripadvisor) as well as Yurui Hot Spring hotel (tripadvisor) and despite the photo of a slab of concrete the Chinese commentaries pick up on the villa's with hot springs.

Other counties
In Yangjiang county is the Fenghuang Hot Spring Resort (tripadvisor). Another hot spring in Yangjiang is Mangyun hot spring (source).

Lianghe county has the Longwo hot spring (Panaramio). More fame is given to big boiling pot (Dagunguo):
'The most magnificent view of the "hot sea" is the boiling pool with a temperature of 97℃. So it is called "the Big Boiling Pot" by the local people. It is above 3 meters in diameter and 1.5 meters deep. There are dozens of big springs of vapor with a temperature of 94℃ at the mouths of the springs, where you can steam food. There was a legend that once upon a time, an ox drank salty water of spring and dropped into it owing to its carefulness. When the shepherd boy turned back with villagers, the ox has already become beef. The two Chinese characters "热海" (Hot Sea) were carved on the stone standing 30 meters away from "the big boiling pot". There are some bathrooms and steam beds for people to take a steam bath or receive medical treatment'. (source)
Though I have doubts whether it really is located in Lianghe (rather in Tengchong, Baoshan), let's just list it twice ....